Glenys' Rome & Beyond

Follow her adventures wherever she goes…

Capri’s Dreamy Days & Never-ending Nights

I became properly introduced to the Amalfi Coast when my boyfriend took me there for Easter. We were just friends at the time but the romantic setting quickly worked its magic. Since then, we have spent every other weekend at his family’s beach house as well as several summer vacations.
The Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most beautiful regions and although this is a time-tested and well-known opinion, the loads of tourists do little to ruin its image; in fact, in several cases, they add to the allure.
Capri is the gem of this region. During the day, it is bombarded by stereotypical tourists, however, we already knew that this was not the best time to visit this exhilarating island. While the sun still beamed its blazing rays, we could be found lounging on a boat with our friends and exploring its magnificent coastline, which features unbelievable views and excellent snorkeling opportunities. There are superb restaurants located on isolated cliffs that are reachable mainly by boat and we had the catch of the day baked in a crust of salt. From the restaurants terrace, which overlooked the sea, we watched as the tourists visited the blue grotto on their little boats. We found a more enchanting way of seeing it, we swam in with our snorkeling gear and enjoyed its glorious light from all around.
Capri is exciting when the sun goes down. The tourists with the ugly hats, Bermuda shorts and ‘I-heart-Capri’ attire, simply vanished, however, cosmopolitan Americans remained, which reminded me of home. Anacapri at dusk is where I have seen the chicest Americans in Italy. Goddesses floated by in gossamer mini-dresses accompanied by Hollywoodesque metrosexual men. The main piazza became a runway as head-turning visions of all types danced on by. The summer breeze set a tranquil tone which gave this jet-set location a dream-like film-set essence.
The only thing to jar my view were the sun-burnt old men in red jeans and Elvis-black-dyed hair. Ages ago, perhaps a thousand years or more, Capri launched the fashion of coral red jeans. It was all the rage, then, and men donned them all over the isle throughout the endless summer. We are now well into the new millennium and yet the Jurassic continue to wear these horrific red jeans as they hold on the remembrance of youth that their black hair dye convinces them of having. I suppose they will die out eventually…then again, we all will. However, they are on their last leg. Although they may have one leg in the tomb, the other is sitting pretty in their red Ferrari, obviously the wheelchair of the new millennium.
While on Capri, Italy’s surgery-enhanced celebrities and aging politicians all head to Anema & Core where Guido Lembo and his band will play all their Italian favorites. If you have never experienced an Italian piano bar scenario, this is a must-see; once, is more than enough. Although Guido makes me join him on stage to sing something every time I go, after my first experience, I have never wished to return. The club is always overly packed, where you feel like you are stuck in a net bag of mussels. The crowd, which ranges in age from 17 – centennial, is mostly either extremely drunk or beyond high. It costs E40 to get in – most clubs on Capri do – which does not include the dry cleaning bill you will pay after all the drunks have spilled their drinks on you throughout the night. Although Guido’s show is quite comical and entertaining, it is always the same, as is the mixed crowd of geriatrics and post-adolescents, and simply not my idea of fun. I think Italians enjoy Anema & Core due to the fact that they can spot their favorite Italian celebrities go completely insane as well as the added bonus of being able to join them in this endeavor.
I prefer to go where I can dance and have the space to do so, which is why my choice is always Panta Rei. Unfortunately, almost every time we go to Capri, the majority of our group are Italians and therefore prefer Anema& Core. My boyfriend and I, however, eventually succeed in escaping to the summer version of Rome’s La Cabala, which is nearby. We especially enjoy our immediate admittance. My Roman connections to the rescue!
Panta Rei, on the other hand, is a chic club with elegant design and excellent music. The vast outdoor area is like a tropical paradise overlooking the sea, where guests can relax, sip their cocktails and enjoy the chill-out sounds. Panta Rei, indoors is cool and sleek as are those that manage to get inside; here, the music is expertly whipped to a glorious frenzy.  Capri boasts a very exclusive nightlife. There were crowds outside of every club and we noticed that not everyone was granted entry.
Capri by night comes at a high price. Docking your boat varies depending on its size. There was not always a spot available, in which case, we hired a couple of young adults to sit in it and watch it all night, while we played. We knew them, though. If you vacation on the Coast often, you manage to accumulate a list of numbers of helpful people, such as, guys who will watch your boat in Capri, guys who will illegally dock your boat to another boat and move it if caught, P/R guys who will get you into the clubs for free without waiting in line etc. The difficulty is in making sure that whoever watches your boat is reliable or they may just take off with your boat, therefore, never leave the boats’ documents on board when you leave it docked.
Sometimes our friends with boats were away or wanted to be able to get drunk so we would rent a boat and driver, who then watched the boat for the night. Rentals are easily found at Sorrento, Massa Lubrense, Marina del Cantone or Positano; the lesser known ports always had the better deals. Docking was sometimes an inconvenient problem which is why many opt for the night-ferry. Since there were always several people in our party, renting a boat saved us money and gave us the added freedom of coming and going as we pleased. Sailing gets quite crisp at night and we always got wet from the fine sea spray, so we made sure to bring a jacket, cotton-knit hat and even a towel or two.
Capri at night is not everyone’s idea of divertimento especially if you are ot interested in gaining VIP status of any kind. If you prefer to dress down and clubs are not your scene, save your money and only visit it by day. While dining on Capri at night can be entertaining, there are many amazing restaurants on the mainland where you can eat and be comfortable, dressed however you like. Capri does not have a fashion police, but most people are very dressed up by sundown, therefore you may feel like the tourist who missed his ferry, if you are not. At night, Capri is the place to see and be seen, if this does not interest you, then skip it.
Go by day and sail the coast, swim in its magnificent waters and pack your snorkeling gear so you can explore its jewel-toned grottoes and see the wide array of fish fearlessly swim around you. The only fish that are dangerous off the Amalfi Coast are the dreaded medusa (jellyfish), which are not very prevalent; the murena (sea snake), which lurk in deep holes within the rocks and may scare you by baring its sharp teeth, but tend to only attack when in danger and ricci di mare (sea urchin), whose spikes will hurt your feet if you step on one. These usually nestle in out-of-reach crevices, but watch where you step while snorkeling. During the day, you could join the tourists for a quick visit ashore. Buy your souvenirs, shop a little and get some food but remember that the best of Capri is seen by boat and once you have circled its coast, Capri will forever remain like Nat King Cole’s song, unforgettable.
properly introduced to the Amalfi Coast when my boyfriend took me there for Easter. We were just friends at the time but the romantic setting quickly worked its magic. Since then, we have spent every other weekend at his family’s beach house as well as several summer vacations.
The Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most beautiful regions and although this is a time-tested and well-known opinion, the loads of tourists do little to ruin its image; in fact, in several cases, they add to the allure.
Capri is the gem of this region. During the day, it is bombarded by tourists, but this is not the best time to visit the island anyway. During the day, we could be found lounging on a boat with our friends and exploring its coastline which features unbelieveable views and excellent snorkeling oportunities. There are restaurants located on isolated cliffs that are reachable mainly by boat and we had the catch of the day baked in a crust of salt. We watched as the tourists visited the blue grotto on their little boats. We found a more enchanting way of seeng it, we swam in with our snorkeling gear and enjoyed its glorious light from all around.
Capri is exciting when the sun goes down. The tourists with the ugly hats, bermuda shorts and ‘I-heart-Capri’ attire, simply vanished, however, there were always Americans everywhere, so I felt quite at home. This is where I have seen the chicest Americans in Italy. Godesses floated by in gossamer mini-dresses accompanied by Hollywoodesque metrosexual men. The main piazza became a runway as head-turning visions of all types danced on by. The summer breeze set a tranquil tone which gave this jet-set location a dream-like essence. The only thing to jarr my view were the old men in red jeans and Elvis-black-hair. Ages ago, perhaps a thousand years or more, Capri launched the fashion of coral red jeans. It was all the rage and men donned them all over the isle. We are now well into the new millenium and yet the jurassic who are barely managing to continue to breathe also continue to wear these horrific red jeans as they hold on the remembrance of youth that their black hair dye convinces them of having. I suppose they will die out eventually. They are on their last leg, one is in their Ferrari, obviously the wheelchair of the new millenium, and the other is in the tomb with their red jeans.
While on Capri, Italy’s celebrities and politicians all head to Anema & Core where Guido Lembo and his band will play all their Itaian favorites. If you have never experienced an Italian piano bar scenario, this is a must-see, just once, though. Although Guido makes me join him on stage to sing something every time I go, after my first experence, I have never enjoyed this club very much. The club is always overly packed and most are either drunk or high. It costs E40 to get in, which does not include the dry cleaning bill you will pay after all the drunks spill their drinks on you throughout the night. I think Italans enjoy it due to the fact that they can spot their favorite Italian celebrities. Personally, I do not care about watching Italian ‘celebrities’, especally since so many here have gained fame after a scandalous affair or a publicity stunt. I prefer to go where I can dance and have the space to do so, which is why my choice is always Pantarei. Unfortunately, almost every time we go to Capri, the majority of our group are Italians and therefore prefer Anema& Core. My boyfriend and I, however, eventually succeed in escaping to the summer version of Rome’s La Cabala, which is nearby. We especially enjoy our immediate admittance. My Roman connections to the rescue!
Pantarei, on the other hand, is a chic club with elegant design and excellent music. The vast outdoor area is like a tropical paradise overlooking the sea, while its indoor is cool and sleek as are those that manage to get inside. Capri boasts a very exclusive nightlife. There were crowds outside of every club and we noticed that not everyone was granted entry.
Capri by night comes at a high price. Docking your boat varies depending on its size. There was not always a spot available, in which case, we hired a couple of guys to sit in it and watch it all night, while we played. We knew them, though. If you vacation on the Coast often, you manage to accumulate a list of numbers of helpful people, such as, guys who will watch your boat in Capri, guys who will illegally dock your boat to another boat and move it if caught, guys who will get you into the clubs for free without waiting in line etc. The difficulty is in making sure they are reliable or they may just take off with your boat. Sometimes our friends with boats were away or wanted to be able to get drunk so we would rent a boat and driver, who then watched the boat for the night. Rentals are easily found at Sorrento, Massa Lubrense, Marina del Cantone or Positano; the lesser known ports always had the better deals. Docking was sometimes a problem which is why many opt for the night-ferry. Since there were always several people in our party, renting a boat saved us money and gave us the added freedom of coming and going as we pleased. Sailing gets quite cold at night and we always got wet from the spray, so we always made sure to bring a jacket, cotton-knit hat and even a towel or two.
Capri at night is not everyone’s idea of divertimento. If you prefer to dress down and clubs are not your scene, save your money and only visit it by day. While dining on Capri at night can be entertaining, there are many amazing restaurants on the mainland where you can eat and be comfortable, dressed however you like. Capri does not have a fashion police, but most people are very dressed up by sundown, therefore you may feel like the tourist who missed his ferry, if you are not. At night, Capri is the place to see and be seen, if this does not interest you, then skip it.
Go by day and sail the coast, swim in its magnificent waters and pack your snorkeling gear so you can explore its grotoes and see the wide array of fish swim around you. The only fish that are dangerous off the Amalfi Coast are the dreaded medusa (jellyfish), which are not very prevalent; the murena (sea snake), which hide in deep holes within the rocks and may scare you by baring its sharp teeth but tend to only attack when in danger and ricci di mare (sea urchin), whose spikes will hurt your feet if you step on one. These usually nestle in out-of-reach crevices, but watch where you step while snorkeling. During the day, you could join the tourists for a quick visit ashore. Buy your souveniers, shop a little and get some food but remember that the best of Capri is seen by boat. It is like Nat King Cole once sang, unforgetable.
I became properly introduced to the Amalfi Coast when my boyfriend took me there for Easter. We were just friends at the time but the romantic setting quickly worked its magic. Since then, we have spent every other weekend at his family’s beach house as well as several summer vacations.
The Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most beautiful regions and although this is a time-tested and well-known opinion, the loads of tourists do little to ruin its image; in fact, in several cases, they add to the allure.
Capri is the gem of this region. During the day, it is bombarded by tourists, but this is not the best time to visit the island anyway. During the day, we could be found lounging on a boat with our friends and exploring its coastline which features unbelieveable views and excellent snorkeling oportunities. There are restaurants located on isolated cliffs that are reachable mainly by boat and we had the catch of the day baked in a crust of salt. We watched as the tourists visited the blue grotto on their little boats. We found a more enchanting way of seeng it, we swam in with our snorkeling gear and enjoyed its glorious light from all around.
Capri is exciting when the sun goes down. The tourists with the ugly hats, bermuda shorts and ‘I-heart-Capri’ attire, simply vanished, however, there were always Americans everywhere, so I felt quite at home. This is where I have seen the chicest Americans in Italy. Godesses floated by in gossamer mini-dresses accompanied by Hollywoodesque metrosexual men. The main piazza became a runway as head-turning visions of all types danced on by. The summer breeze set a tranquil tone which gave this jet-set location a dream-like essence. The only thing to jarr my view were the old men in red jeans and Elvis-black-hair. Ages ago, perhaps a thousand years or more, Capri launched the fashion of coral red jeans. It was all the rage and men donned them all over the isle. We are now well into the new millenium and yet the jurassic who are barely managing to continue to breathe also continue to wear these horrific red jeans as they hold on the remembrance of youth that their black hair dye convinces them of having. I suppose they will die out eventually. They are on their last leg, one is in their Ferrari, obviously the wheelchair of the new millenium, and the other is in the tomb with their red jeans.
While on Capri, Italy’s celebrities and politicians all head to Anema & Core where Guido Lembo and his band will play all their Itaian favorites. If you have never experienced an Italian piano bar scenario, this is a must-see, just once, though. Although Guido makes me join him on stage to sing something every time I go, after my first experence, I have never enjoyed this club very much. The club is always overly packed and most are either drunk or high. It costs E40 to get in, which does not include the dry cleaning bill you will pay after all the drunks spill their drinks on you throughout the night. I think Italans enjoy it due to the fact that they can spot their favorite Italian celebrities. Personally, I do not care about watching Italian ‘celebrities’, especally since so many here have gained fame after a scandalous affair or a publicity stunt. I prefer to go where I can dance and have the space to do so, which is why my choice is always Pantarei. Unfortunately, almost every time we go to Capri, the majority of our group are Italians and therefore prefer Anema& Core. My boyfriend and I, however, eventually succeed in escaping to the summer version of Rome’s La Cabala, which is nearby. We especially enjoy our immediate admittance. My Roman connections to the rescue!
Pantarei, on the other hand, is a chic club with elegant design and excellent music. The vast outdoor area is like a tropical paradise overlooking the sea, while its indoor is cool and sleek as are those that manage to get inside. Capri boasts a very exclusive nightlife. There were crowds outside of every club and we noticed that not everyone was granted entry.
Capri by night comes at a high price. Docking your boat varies depending on its size. There was not always a spot available, in which case, we hired a couple of guys to sit in it and watch it all night, while we played. We knew them, though. If you vacation on the Coast often, you manage to accumulate a list of numbers of helpful people, such as, guys who will watch your boat in Capri, guys who will illegally dock your boat to another boat and move it if caught, guys who will get you into the clubs for free without waiting in line etc. The difficulty is in making sure they are reliable or they may just take off with your boat. Sometimes our friends with boats were away or wanted to be able to get drunk so we would rent a boat and driver, who then watched the boat for the night. Rentals are easily found at Sorrento, Massa Lubrense, Marina del Cantone or Positano; the lesser known ports always had the better deals. Docking was sometimes a problem which is why many opt for the night-ferry. Since there were always several people in our party, renting a boat saved us money and gave us the added freedom of coming and going as we pleased. Sailing gets quite cold at night and we always got wet from the spray, so we always made sure to bring a jacket, cotton-knit hat and even a towel or two.
Capri at night is not everyone’s idea of divertimento. If you prefer to dress down and clubs are not your scene, save your money and only visit it by day. While dining on Capri at night can be entertaining, there are many amazing restaurants on the mainland where you can eat and be comfortable, dressed however you like. Capri does not have a fashion police, but most people are very dressed up by sundown, therefore you may feel like the tourist who missed his ferry, if you are not. At night, Capri is the place to see and be seen, if this does not interest you, then skip it.
Go by day and sail the coast, swim in its magnificent waters and pack your snorkeling gear so you can explore its grotoes and see the wide array of fish swim around you. The only fish that are dangerous off the Amalfi Coast are the dreaded medusa (jellyfish), which are not very prevalent; the murena (sea snake), which hide in deep holes within the rocks and may scare you by baring its sharp teeth but tend to only attack when in danger and ricci di mare (sea urchin), whose spikes will hurt your feet if you step on one. These usually nestle in out-of-reach crevices, but watch where you step while snorkeling. During the day, you could join the tourists for a quick visit ashore. Buy your souveniers, shop a little and get some food but remember that the best of Capri is seen by boat. It is like Nat King Cole once sang, unforgetable.

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10 Comments»

  Womens Clothing wrote @

I’m glad to have visited your blog and good to know you! I find it interesting and informative.

  Glenys Vargas wrote @

Thank you! I hope you enjoy coming back to visit.

I look forward to seeing you here again!

Glenys

  bob wrote @

where can i find dock space to dock a 55 powerboat for the summer in capri…how much does this cost and who do i talk to/ what email address?
thanks

  Glenys Vargas wrote @

Hi Bob,

Whenever we sail to Capri, we call one of our friends who knows a guy who works on the docks. In Italy, it is all about who you know. Since we only go for the nightlife, our boat is tied to one of the boats already docked. The guy will also keep an eye on it while we’re dancing the night away. We’ve paid as low as E50, we have been asked for as much as E200 on holidays and have been quoted E400 from another dock worker. Docking your boat at Capri is expensive. If you want to pay less, I suggest staying and docking in one of the small towns on the coast just a 10 minute sail from Capri, such as Massa Lubrense, Marina del Cantone etc. Then, you can sail to Capri during the day, meet some dock workers and negotiate a docking price for night-time or extended visits. In the meantime, I will try to get you as much contact information as I can. When do you plan to go? I’m in Oslo for Eurovision at the moment, so it may take me longer to get the info. I’ll post it as soon as I get it.

  Gianni Tedesco wrote @

To find a place for your boat you have to contact the Porto Turistico of Capri , sending them a fax with your boat’s details.
prenotazioni@portoturisticodicapri.com

I also now the guy that could help you to dock the boat while you are dancing, that is cheaper.

  HAL wrote @

Thank you! this is very useful! We are planning a sailing trip to Amalfi and we are staying in capri for a couple of days. We are a group of 7 girls plus a skipper, do you have anymore useful advice re docking, safety?

  Glenys Vargas wrote @

It’s quite expensive to dock in Capri. Some people pay off a guy and dock off of a docked boat for a night while they go dancing, but if you plan to stay longer you might want to try docking at nearby Massa Lubrense or Marina del Cantone. Both are just a 10 minute sail away, cheaper than Capri and you can sail to Capri whenever you wish. Both have some great restaurants as well.

  HAL wrote @

Also other than Ill Riccio and Da Luigi, are there any other beach clubs worth trying?

  Glenys Vargas wrote @

I find that the best way to see Capri is on a boat. The beaches that are accessible by foot are OK but what you’ll find by sailing around it is absolutely breathtaking!

  Hod wrote @

Wow! Memories from the times i was bachlor and without kids.
Great post.


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